How to sew jeans?
Watch the video
Jeans have always been, are and will be very comfortable and fashionable clothes. You must admit that these trousers are made of denim - clothes for all times, ages, for people of very different social groups and wealth. And craftswomen, tailors, and novice needlewomen, often have the desire to sew them on their own. There are many reasons for this - a non-standard figure, there is not enough money to buy, but an exclusive model was born in my head and I really want to realize it. And then the question arises - how to sew jeans. Experienced seamstresses say that you need to sew in the same way as regular trousers. In this article we will try to give the most necessary recommendations for making jeans trousers, they will help you to cope with this difficult task.
The choice of fabric
Begin your new stunning jeans, oddly enough, in a fabric store. If you have watched a cheap, soft, thin fabric, then you need to understand that from this one there will be trousers for one season. By the way, learning how to sew jeans yourself is best on such a fabric. If anything goes wrong, it's not a pity.And if you already have experience in sewing work, then choose a better fabric. Jeans should be tight, with bright colors. If you have a full figure, it is better to choose a stretch. For very thin girls fit tight not stretching fabric, it will give a certain amount of shape. For children's jeans, choose a dense, but soft fabric, so that the child does not rub himself anything with active movement.
How much to buy fabric
This question is the easiest when sewing trousers. Measure the distance from your waist to the floor with a measuring tape. Then add 20 cm to it. This is the length of the piece of fabric that you need to buy in the store if the width of the fabric is 150 cm. In this case, there will be pockets between the patterns and a belt on top. If you have a very lush figure, it is best to first make a pattern, then lay it on the floor and measure how much fabric can go. No need to buy much more fabric without fitting, it is often expensive to buy even an extra 10 cm, and even then, why would they roll in your bag with leftovers?
If you sew warm jeans to your child, you will also buy lining fabric. In addition to the fabric you will need to buy non-woven fabric for sizing the belt,adhesive tape for processing the bottom of the pants, a zipper, one button on the belt (or two, depending on the model invented), lining fabric for pockets (cotton is better), and decorative elements (buttons, labels, etc.). types of threads, in tone of fabric and finishing, if you will do finishing lines, which, as a rule, are on all jeans.
Pattern in old jeans
This is a very important point, because the correct pattern of jeans is 70% of your success and a guarantee that you will wear a comfortable piece with pleasure. I propose to use the excellent advice of those who have already sewed for themselves and their children. Take the old jeans, in which you are very comfortable to walk, spread them out, iron out, this will be your perfect pattern. You can even transfer these patterns to thick paper or thick plastic film. In this case, you will be able to use the pattern of trousers many times, unless, of course, you change the shape. If you feel sorry for unpicking your favorite pants, you can simply fold them along the seam and circle them on paper. It turns out not so accurate pattern, but still it will be yours and it will be easy to fit on the figure, if your hand trembles while drawing the pattern. It is very convenient to make patterns for children's pants, denim overalls.
Pattern from scratch
I wonder how to sew jeans if there are no old pants? Prepare a large sheet of paper, ruler, measuring tape, pencil, marker, scissors. All this you need to create your own individual patterns. First you need to take the basic measurements. Waist circumference should be measured on the narrowest line on your waist, or on the line where the pants will end (in case of low or high waist). In the diagram, this measure is designated OT The second important measure is the circumference of the thighs OB, it is made at the highest points of the buttocks and the widest place of the hips. Then the circumference of the knee is measured, the tape is laid in the middle of the knee. Now go down and measure the width of the bottom line of the pants, it will depend not on the figure, but on the model. The length of the side seam DB is measured from the waistline to the bottom line. The height of the sun seat is the distance from the waist line to the so-called sub-podal fold. Look at your measurements at the ready-made trousers, on the front leg from the waist, through the zipper and to the inside point, where all 4 parts of the trousers are sewn. And now, from this point of the hard fold, measure the distance to the floor, this will be the length of the pitch LH.There are 3 more measures that need to be calculated using simple mathematics. This is VC (knee height), it is equal to half LH minus one tenth of the step length. In short, it looks like this: VK = ½ LH-1/10 LH. The width of the front of the trousers DPPB = ¼ OB - 1 cm. The width of the back of the trousers SHZPB = + 1 cm + 1 cm for a free fit.
Here you can find a sample of the pattern, it shows where and what measurements you should use, you just have to substitute your values and draw the pattern on paper:
Now you need to fold the purchased fabric in half (along a coiled thread) and lay out patterns on it. Please note that the back and front of the need to put a "jack", then between them there will be a place for cutting out pockets, and from a smooth edge it is necessary to measure the strips for the belt. There should be two of them, the length is equal to FROM plus 5 cm for the smell, plus 2 cm for the seams. Width 4 cm plus 2 cm for seams (1 cm on each side). It is necessary to cut out with sharp partner scissors. Attach the patterns to the fabric with pins, circle the details of the trousers with chalk, adding 1 cm from each edge to the seams.
Studying how to sew jeans with their own hands, you should already be clear about how they will look.If you have planned a decorative line, then we start sewing from the side seams. First we sew in tonal threads, then we press both webs into one edge, to the back weave, then from the front side we impose a line with threads of a different color. Step stitches sew only the inner seam. We process seams with overlock. Then we glue the belt with non-woven fabric, first stitch it from the inside, then with decorative threads from the face, cut a button, process the loop, sew a button. Patch back pockets need to bend, ironed, stitch the top on the typewriter, pin with the pins to the right place and stitch off with decorative threads. The bottom of the pants must be bent, glued with adhesive tape and hemmed. All seams need to be ironed well with strong steam, because the seams on jeans are thick and can be molded using an iron is difficult. If you want to decorate jeans with rivets and labels, then it's time to do it, because after that you can try on your jeans!